The Temples of Angkor are justifiably the reason why many people visit Cambodia but there are many more things to see. For us, one of the more unforgettable experiences was visiting the floating villages around Tonle Sap Lake. During our stay in Siem Reap, we visited the floating village of Chong Kneas, the flooded forest and village of Kompong Phhluk (a village built on stilts) and also took the eight hour boat ride from Siem Reap to Battambang. This was a very interesting journey through narrow waterways, along a meandering river, passing through many villages. These villages are a stark reminder of the poverty and living conditions of a large portion of the population.
The floating villages move over the year, depending on the water levels. The homes, stores, churches, schools, general stores, even playgrounds are floating or built on 7-8 meter high stilts. Most of the homes are mere shacks. To say that the river is polluted would be putting it mildly. Everything is dumped into the river. The river, where they bathe, wash dishes, do laundry, wash livestock and play. The visible garbage that you can see strung along the riverbanks is astonishing. It’ll make you mad, it’ll make you sad. You’ll see kids going to school, people purchasing their produce by boat and you’ll be greeted by hundreds of kids, smiling and waving emphatically.
It wasn’t the first time we visited Chong Kneas. Back in 2006 we visited the floating village while on a short trip to Angkor. It was an interesting, though somewhat surreal, and we felt it to be one of the more profound experiences we had had. I’m not proud of it, but I cried for a very long time. I hid it well behind big glasses and a hat, but it was wrong to do. Tears alone don’t make a difference. Fortunately, things did look a little better, and this time it was the smiling faces and the laughter that left the strongest impression. After spending so much time in third world countries, you are bound to ask the question: “Who is happier? Those with precious little (when it comes to material goods), or those with way too much”. I won’t pretend to know the answer to that one, though I don’t think it’s that black and white. I think it depends on a person’s individual ability to cherish what they have. Having more wealth can make things easier, but it surely doesn’t guarantee happiness or fulfillment.
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